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Why a Hand Forged Axe Rewards Regular Care

A hand forged axe is not a disposable tool. Its carbon steel head and wooden handle are made to be maintained, not replaced. For British fell walkers, that matters more than you might think. Our damp climate, acidic peat bogs and salt-laden coastal air will attack an unprotected axe head within hours. Leave it in a bothy corner after a wet day on the Lakeland fells and you will find surface rust by morning. But with a simple routine – sharpen, oil, check the handle – your axe will outlast you. This is not a chore. It is part of the hillcraft that makes you a safer, more self-reliant camper.

Sharpening: Files, Stones and the Right Angle

A camping axe does not need a razor edge. It needs a consistent, sturdy bevel that bites into kindling and softwood without chipping. For most hand forged axes, a bevel of 20 to 25 degrees per side works well. Start with a 200mm mill bastard file. Clamp the axe head securely – or hold it in a vice with wooden jaw liners – and push the file away from the edge, following the existing bevel. Count your strokes and alternate sides. Do not use a bench grinder; the heat will ruin the temper of the steel.

Once the bevel is set, refine it with a diamond stone or a waterstone. A 1000-grit stone removes the file marks, then a 6000-grit stone polishes the edge. Finish with a few strokes on a leather strop loaded with polishing compound. Test the edge on a sheet of paper or a soft pine offcut. If it slices cleanly, stop. Over-sharpening thins the edge and makes it fragile. For routine touch-ups, a small diamond file in your pack is enough – five or six light strokes per side after a day of chopping.

• Use a file guide if you are learning to keep the angle steady.
• Never sharpen a cold axe in a freezing bothy – warm the head slightly first.
• If you feel a burr on the opposite side, you have gone too far; back off.

Keeping Rust at Bay: Oil, Wax and the British Damp

Carbon steel rusts. That is its nature. But you can slow it to a crawl. After every trip, wipe the head with a dry rag. If you have been splitting peat or damp wood, wipe again – peat is acidic and holds moisture. Then apply a thin coat of camellia oil or a beeswax-based protector. Camellia oil is traditional, food-safe and does not gum up. Avoid engine oil; it is toxic and messy. For long storage, use a thicker layer of wax.

If rust does appear, do not panic. A fine abrasive pad with a little oil will lift surface rust without scratching deep. Check under the sheath, too – leather can hold dampness against the steel. In coastal areas, salt air accelerates corrosion, so oil more often. A good habit: keep an oil-soaked rag in a small tin in your rucksack. It weighs almost nothing and saves your axe.

Handle Care: Wood, Oil and the Wedge

The handle is the part most people neglect. A wooden handle dries out, shrinks and cracks – especially if you leave it near a fire or in a hot car. Treat it with boiled linseed oil, not raw linseed, which stays tacky. Apply thin coats with a rag, let it soak for an hour, then wipe off the excess. Repeat until the wood stops drinking. Lightly sand any raised grain with 240-grit paper between coats. Never soak the handle in oil; that softens the wood.

Check the wedge that holds the head. If it sits proud, tap it gently with a mallet. If it is loose or missing, fit a new hardwood or metal wedge. Never use your axe as a hammer – that is the fastest way to loosen a head. If the head feels even slightly loose, stop using the axe. A flying axe head is a serious injury waiting to happen. Store your axe hanging head-up in a dry shed, not in its sheath, which can trap moisture.

Field Repairs and Routine Checks for the Hill

Carry a small repair kit: a diamond file, a stub of oiled rag in a tin, and a spare wedge. After each trip, run through a simple check. Look for cracks in the handle, a loose head, or a rolled edge. Tighten the wedge if needed. If the handle cracks, wrap it tightly with self-amalgamating tape as a temporary fix until you can re-handle it. For a head that has worked loose, the old trick is to soak the handle in linseed oil so the wood swells – but this can cause rot. Better to re-wedge properly at home.

On the fell, if your axe head loosens, stop chopping immediately. Tap the wedge gently with a mallet or a stone. If it will not tighten, pack the axe away and use a saw instead. Do not risk a loose head. A well-maintained axe is a safe axe.

Using and Storing Your Axe Safely on the Fell

Safe use starts with a chopping block, not the ground. Chopping into soil or stones will roll your edge in seconds. Clear your zone – no overhead branches, no bystanders within two axe lengths. For camping, use a small axe for splitting kindling and shaving tinder. After use, wipe sap and resin from the head with a rag and a little oil. Store the axe dry, away from damp. In a bothy, keep it away from the stove; sudden heat will dry and crack the handle. At home, a simple wall rack or a wooden peg keeps it safe.

A hand forged axe is a companion. Treat it with the same respect you give your boots and waterproofs. Sharpen it little and often. Oil it after every trip. Check the handle before you swing. Do that, and it will serve you faithfully through many seasons on the fells – from a damp Cumbrian valley to a frosty Cairngorm plateau.